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Re-vamp your wardrobe and dress for your shape


Sue Courtney explains how to create a more successful you

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Published Date: 30 July 2008
In July I talked about the different trends on offer this season. I hope you have been able to find some pieces of your current wardrobe that fit a trend or have been able to update last years look with a belt or bag.

Now, I am going to ask you to do something that some of you may find a bit uncomfortable. It is absolutely necessary and you can do it on your own. Look in the mirror – full length – in just your underwear. Really look. I want you to realistically
assess your shape. Which fruit do you most resemble : apple, pear, rhubarb or strawberry? Or are you an hourglass? You need to know, so if you are confused by the fruit imagery, let me explain.
• If you are an apple shape you will have a voluptuous chest, round tummy, little or no clearly defined waist, quite a flat bum, chunky arms and wonderfully slim legs.
• If you are a pear you have a small bust, slim arms, slim waist, flat tummy, curvaceous hips and heavy legs.
• If you are a rhubarb shape you have a boyish, straight up and down body, small boobs, no clearly defined waist, slim hips, wonderfully long slim legs and a long body.
• If you are a strawberry you have a wide back and broad shoulders, large boobs, a flat bottom, slim legs and carry weight around your tummy.
• If you are an hourglass you are curvaceous, with a full bust, small waist rounded hips and generous thighs. You may also have heavy legs.

As you can see, there is no perfect shape. If you are like me you would probably like to have aspects of each. I would certainly like long, slim legs, but I am an hourglass and mine are short and heavy so I resort to trickery to make them appear longer and slimmer by the clothes and shoes I wear.

Now you know what shape you are you can begin to dress to enhance it, as all shapes have their plus points.We are led to believe that the 'ideal' shape, if such exists, is a figure of 8. Few of us can match up to that, at least without a life of struggle and denial of treats, and what sort of life would that be? Not one I want, but happily there is another way. First, I beseech you PLEASE, PLEASE, PLEASE go and get yourself fitted professionally for a bra (mostly for female readers!). I would never have believed the difference it could make if I hadn't experienced it for myself. The majority of women in this country are wearing the wrong sized bra and wearing the right size can alter your shape instantly.

Then you need to know a few tricks for dressing for your shape.
• Apples should opt for V-neck and wrap tops to break up your torso and accentuate your cleavage (if you're lucky enough to have it, flaunt it!) Tailored jackets that nip in at the waist will also give shape – but ensure that all your tops fall just below the beltline. Wear wide leg trousers to balance your frame or pencil skirts to show off your legs. Cover chunky arms with three-quarter sleeves and wear bracelets to draw attention to slim wrists. Under no circumstances wear polo neck or high round neck tops.
• If you are a pear shape then you want to focus attention on your upper body with frills, wide lapels, jewellery, scarves and any other interesting detail. Puff sleeves will balance out your body by giving the illusion of width at the top. Wide, slash neck tops will have the same effect. A-line skirts will skim over hips and tailored jackets and skirts with structure will be more flattering. Wearing dark, plain colours on your lower half and patterns on your top half will draw attention to your slim upper body. Get fitted for a push-up bra to add volume and balance out your hips. Boots will help disguise chunky legs and skirts should cover knees and the top of your boots. High heels will lengthen your leg, especially if you steer clear of high fronts and ankle straps. Don't wear short skirts or bias cut skirts which will cling to all the places you would like to hide.
• If you are a rhubarb you can wear polo necks and bulkier, more textured knits. Choosing tailored jackets and coats will give the illusion of shapely curves. Wear sleeveless tops to show off your enviably slim arms. Vest tops and cut-away sleeved tops with high necks are also a good choice, which the larger busted among us really should not attempt. (I speak from experience). You can also wear short skirts to show off your long legs and tight, structures clothes to create curves. Use colours and layers to break up your longer body and create interest. Avoid baggy clothes and gypsy skirts as they will look out of proportion and draw attention to your lack of curves.
• Strawberries are top heavy so should opt for deep V-necks and wrap tops and dresses. It can be difficult to find dresses when your bust is bigger than your hips, so the softly draping wrap dress is ideal. Again, go for tailored jackets and coats and tailored shirts, ensuring that the buttons don't bulge over your cleavage. Emphasise your slim legs by wearing fitted skirts and belt hipster belts off centre to attract attention away from your bust. Choose elegant, high heels to showcase shapely ankles. The right bra will make a huge difference to the way clothes fit. Don't button coats or jackets up to the neck – this will make your top look even bigger. Avoid polo necks and high neck tops, bold patterns and bulky knits.
• If you are an hourglass then wear v-neck or sweetheart necklines to flatter your bust and draw attention away from heavy arms. Again, choose fitted clothes to flatter your shape. High heels will elongate your legs and lift your bottom. Always emphasise your waist – it is an asset. Wearing long boots with skirt can help disguise heavy legs and create a leaner shape. Avoid empire line or dropped waist tops and dresses as they will make you appear top or bottom heavy and a bit shapeless.

As you can see, all shapes have their flaws and their strong features. All you have to do is figure out how to minimise the flaws and maximise the features and you have the perfect shape. I have to wonder, at this point, why designers and manufacturers make shapeless, baggy clothes when they seem to flatter nobody. Fitted clothes are more flattering, though I must admit to having spent many years wafting around in baggy, shapeless tents whilst trying to avoid mirrors!

Now you know what to wear to look your best you need to attack the wardrobe – not for nothing does Nicky Hambleton-Jones call it a Wardrobe Warrior session. Be ruthless and really analyse your clothes. If they don't fit the rules and don't make you look and feel great they either have to be altered or binned. Do you love your clothes or just wear them? William Morris once said that he allowed nothing in his house that he either knew to be useful or believed to be beautiful. This applies to clothes too. If it doesn't fit, you haven't worn it for a year or it makes your energy plummet every time you see it in your wardrobe, I'm sorry, but it has to go. The new, stylish you can't emerge if you are still wearing that old coat or top, just because it cost a lot, your mother-in-law knitted it or it has some other way of making you feel guilty. Guilt is not attractive – give it away to someone who will truly appreciate it and move on. I have regular culls of my clothes, at least three times a year. I rarely regret throwing something out for more than a few hours!

But before you throw out everything, be creative. Would the jacket you wear with the suit look better with different trousers? Could a belt, bag or scarf transform a tired outfit and bring it back to trendy life? As Duke Ellington said,
"It don't mean a thing if it aint got that swing…"
So be playful when putting your clothes together in different ways, have fun. A complete wardrobe re-vamp with a professional can take about three to five hours. On your own it won't be any quicker and is a lot less fun. Try setting aside an hour each evening to make it more manageable. Once you have decided what to throw out, go do it. Get it out of the house and out of your life before you are tempted to sneak something back. A stylist will often take the bag of discarded clothes with her to ensure the can be no backsliding! While you are doing this remember to throw out all the wire hangers – every single one.

Your clothes should reflect you – your authentic style. If you aren't sure what that is any more then look in magazines and cut out pictures of clothes you like. Analyse what it is that you like about them. Are there any celebrities whose style you admire? Collect pictures of them and see if you can adapt what they wear to your shape. Make a seasonal style board to set your subconscious mind looking for opportunities to find similar items within your budget. As you buy a piece or change your mind, simply stick another picture over it.

Finally, once you have weeded out the unflattering items in your collection take a close look at the remaining items. How well do you care for your clothes? Can you go to your wardrobe every morning and pick out anything and guarantee that it is clean, ironed, in good repair and ready to wear? How do you arrange your clothes in your wardrobe? (I can hear some asking – arrange? No I shove things in anywhere.) It is important that when you open your wardrobe you are inspired, it makes it so much easier to pick an outfit, so arrange them by colour, group them into skirts, tops etc, or any way you choose that works for you.

You may not have as many clothes now, but you know that you look great in every outfit and feel inspired every time you open your wardrobe and see the rail of neatly arranged, clean tidy clothes ready to be worn. Liberating isn't it?

Sue Courtney is a Personal Success Coach and Stylist. If you would like a Wardrobe Re-vamp or Style Shop or coaching towards your goals please contact her either by phone on 01730 814439 or by email on sue@successandimagecoach.co.uk




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  • Last Updated: 30 July 2008 9:59 AM
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